Don Alfonso

September 25, 2011

Don Alfonso Restaurant is in the village of Sant’Agata sui due Golfi (between two gulfs, Salerno and Napoli). It was recommended to me by my colleague and mentor member, Angie Katselianos, in Milan. She called it, “one of the three great restaurants in Italy.”

Although it was more than an hour’s drive on winding roads from Amalfi, we hired a car and driver and took the trip. As a result, we dined in what is now one of my ten favorite restaurants in the world, an equal of Per Se, French Laundry, Gary Danko, True, and their ilk.

Don Alfonso’s son, Mario Iaccarino, personally greeted us and chatted during the evening. It is the only restaurant we dined in during our trip (to four world-class properties) in Italy where most men wore jackets. The atmosphere is convivial and very elegant. We were seated at 8 and departed at 10:30. This is not a place that hurries you.

I can’t do justice to the incredible food that was served, except to say that the ingredients are fresh, recipes original, and presentation exquisite. The wine list would require a full night to appreciate. After my selection, the sommelier said, “Ah, you don’t need me,” which was a very gracious lie.

After dinner, we received a tour of the kitchen and were introduced to another son, Ernesto, who rules the kitchen, which was as spotless as an operating theater. There must have been a dozen chefs hustling, smiling, producing amazing dishes.

We were then escorted to the wine cellar, carved out within volcanic rock, as an ancient Etruscan escape route more than 2,000 years old. As I descended on roughly-hewn rock steps, with walls dripping moisture, surrounded by “chapels” of incredible wines, I considered simply staying. How long would it take to consume 25,000 bottles?

Finally, after five minutes or so (it was much faster going down than returning), I arrived at a spiral staircase which took me to the lowest point, 40 meters underground. There, provolone hung from rafters until it aged properly. Now that I had cheese and wine, if I could find a little bread, I was definitely not surfacing.

Mario gave us some gifts to take home, and the drive back was spent talking about a singular adventure. If you ever have the chance, visit Don Alfonso (http://www.donalfonso.com/en/index.htm).

Tell Mario I sent you.